Looking for a pet that's gentle and loveable but doesn't require
the run of the house? Then you may want to consider a guinea
pig. Guinea pigs are one of several small, domesticated mammal
species commonly known as "pocket pets." In 1996, according to
the American Veterinary Medical Association, about 583,000 U.S.
households kept at least one guinea pig as a pet.
While we're not sure how they got their name, guinea pigs have
been bred for more than 400 years. They descend from wild
porcupine-like rodents of South America and are called "cavies"
(a shortened form of their Latin name) by many breeders and
owners. A guinea pig's claim to fame is that it is the only
domestic rodent with no tail.
Behavior
Guinea pigs rarely bite or scratch, but they can be
messy-scattering food, water and bedding all over their cages.
Their vocabulary includes about nine sounds, from whistling to
purring to squealing. They are most active at dusk and dawn, but
easily adjust to the routine of your household. Guinea pigs can
be fun to watch. They like to explore new settings, but if
scared, they'll either freeze or scatter in different
directions.
Choosing your new pet
Before welcoming Piggy into your home, it's a good idea to read
up on guinea pigs and their care. Also, find a veterinarian in
your area who is comfortable treating guinea pigs; not all of
them are.
Your new guinea pig should be at least six weeks old before
bringing him home. Guinea pigs can already breed at this age, so
be sure not to keep a male and female in the same cage unless at
least one is neutered. (Check with your veterinarian for more
information about getting your pet spayed or neutered.)
Guinea pigs come in a variety of colors and coats from which you
can choose. They may be a solid color, or a combination of two
or three colors. Their coat may be short, long, silky or
whorled. There are even hairless guinea pigs! If you choose a
long-haired guinea pig, be prepared to help him groom himself by
combing him once every two or three weeks.
Creating the best home for Piggy
Guinea pigs are social animals and can live with others of their
kind in the same cage, but be sure that enough space is provided
for each animal. Partitioning the cage is suggested to provide
each animal with separate sleeping quarters. Male guinea pigs
should not be housed with young ones. If you notice any signs of
aggressiveness between guinea pigs living in the same cage,
separate them at once. Some guinea pigs will engage in
"barbering," or chewing on each other's hair. This is not
usually an aggressive act, but rather may be due to boredom,
excitement, a hereditary behavior or perhaps a dietary
deficiency. If the barbering becomes stressful or harmful to one
or more of the guinea pigs, however, you should provide them
each with their own home.
Piggy's cage should be at least 18 inches high, 24 inches wide
and three to six feet long with a solid floor (wire floors are
irritating and can lead to foot or limb problems). Be sure to
place the cage in an area free from drafts, chills, extreme heat
and sudden temperature changes. Also, keep your new friend in a
quiet area with few disturbances. The cage may or may not have a
roof to it; if not, be sure that the walls are high enough to
prevent escape, and that no predators (mainly other household
pets) can reach into it. The lower three inches of the walls
should be solid-this prevents bedding and food from being
scattered outside, yet still allows the guinea pig to see what's
happening around him.
The cage should be easy to take apart and clean. Make sure it's
well-ventilated (no glass aquariums!), with no sharp edges or
corrosion and no small openings that can trap Piggy's feet or
limbs. The cage should also offer your pet a place to hide (see
below for objects that you can put inside to make life more
interesting for him). a
You'll also need to
provide at least 2 inches of bedding for your new friend. The
best bedding is hardwood shavings, or ground corn cob mixed with
a nesting material such as cotton. Shredded newspaper works
well, too. Whatever type of bedding you use, it must be
nontoxic, nonabrasive and inedible, as well as dust free and
absorbent. Also, make sure no sharp objects are mixed in it. The
bedding should be easy to form into nests and tunnels, as well,
since guinea pigs like to nap and hide in these. Sawdust should
never be used, and while cedar chips are a popular bedding
choice, they do tend to make your guinea pig's coat a bit
reddish in color.
Cleaning and entertaining
OK, you've got the right cage and the right bedding. But you
can't just plop Piggy into his new home and feed him now and
then. The cage will need to be cleaned and the bedding changed.
And guinea pigs thrive on loving attention and play, just as
cats and dogs do.
To keep your pet's home clean and safe, change the bedding
daily. Once a week, thoroughly wash and disinfect his cage with
a solution of 1 ounce of bleach mixed in a liter or quart of
water. Be sure the cage is rinsed well and completely dry before
adding fresh bedding and putting Piggy back inside. Rinse
feeders and waterers every day, too. And keep your friend's home
dry, as dampness can cause illness.
In addition to spending quality time with Piggy, help keep him
entertained by giving him objects to play on. Try adding one or
more of the following to his cage: running wheels, escape
tunnels (PVC pipe-wide enough so that Piggy can't get stuck in
it, of course-makes a good tunnel), ladders or plywood boxes (to
climb on). On mild days, you can supervise him in a safe,
outdoor pen (with shade always available), and you can make an
indoor playpen, as well, to provide him with more room to roam.
Your friend would also enjoy exploring a closed room now and
then, under your watchful eyes, of course.
Feeding
Guinea pigs are strict herbivores. They should be fed a
complete, pelleted diet made especially for guinea pigs that
contains at least 16% crude protein. The pellets should not be
fed more than 90 days after their milling (check the bag or box
for the milling date). Also provide small amounts of grass hay,
and supplement Piggy's diet with a source of active ascorbic
acid, such as a handful of cabbage or half a handful of kale
(washed and fresh) or a quarter of an orange. Because guinea
pigs can't produce their own Vitamin C, you should add a Vitamin
C supplement to their water-a teaspoon of Vitamin C liquid to 12
ounces of water. The water will need to be replaced daily,
however, as the Vitamin C will lose its potency rather quickly.
In addition to the above, the following fruits and
vegetables-fresh, washed, and with seeds or pits removed-can be
fed as treats:
lettuce
broccoli
cauliflower
carrots
pea pods
pears
apples
oranges
peaches
strawberries
pineapple
papaya
blueberries
Also, dandelions, grass and wild clover can be picked from your
yard (but only if you're sure they're free from pesticides) and
offered to Piggy, along with oats or graham crackers. But no
more than 10% of your guinea pig's diet should be made up of
foods other than the pellets. And to be sure he doesn't have a
bad reaction to a new food, offer only one new food to Piggy at
a time.
Don't feed powdered food; it just gets wasted, and the dust from
it can gather around Piggy's mouth and in his nose and cause
health problems. No table scraps or other animals' food, either!
These, too, can cause health problems resulting from an
unbalanced diet.
To prevent obesity and nephrosis (a disease of the kidneys) in
older animals, decrease the amount of pelleted food offered and
supplement with more hay. In these aging pets, hay can
constitute up to 25% of their diet.
Food and fresh water should always be available. Mount feeders
and waterers to the cage walls to avoid spills, and only use
water bottles with metal sipper tubes, as Piggy will just chew
up plastic tubes.
Guinea pigs commonly ingest their own feces, so although you may
be disgusted to see such behavior, don't be alarmed! This is
normal and provides them with proteins and vitamins.
Health and handling
Guinea pigs should have veterinary exams done twice a year. At
your first visit, have your veterinarian show you how to clip
Piggy's nails, which will need to be done every two weeks or so.
He or she may also suggest having your pet's teeth trimmed
regularly, as well.
The most common health problem seen in guinea pigs are colds
that result from drafts, dampness or temperature fluctuations.
While we don't think of colds as being too serious, Piggy's cold
can quickly develop into pneumonia, so it's important to have
him examined by your veterinarian as soon as you notice signs of
illness. Also, if your pet stops eating, have him seen
immediately by the veterinarian, as this can be
life-threatening.
To keep your guinea pig as healthy as can be, take time every
day to examine him for lumps, cuts, fleas, ticks or lice. If
Piggy displays a hunched or huddled posture, he could be injured
or sick. Guinea pigs are prone to abscesses under their chins,
too, where their lymph nodes are. Other common signs of illness
include diarrhea, weight loss or excessive weight gain,
inactivity, not going to the bathroom, nasal or eye discharge,
hair loss, incoordination, or limping. If you notice any of
these signs, make an appointment with your veterinarian right
away to get your friend back on the road to good health.
When handling your guinea pig, be sure to pick him up carefully
to avoid injury or discomfort. Use one hand to support him under
the chest, and the other hand to support him under the
hindquarters. Never grab him over his back, as doing so can
inhibit his breathing. And, of course, such a small pet can be
easily injured if dropped, so be careful!
A healthy, happy guinea pig
With good care, guinea pigs live up to 12 years, with about six
or eight years being the average. By learning all you can about
your new pet; providing him with a clean home, a nutritious
diet, and expert veterinary care; and giving him lots of love
and affection, you can help Piggy enjoy a healthy, happy life.
